這里是位于甘肅省酒泉市下轄的敦煌市西北部的雅丹地貌區。在廣袤無垠的天地之間，土黃色的雅丹體在蒼穹之下散發出一種古樸而蒼涼的氣息。在一塊雅丹體的下緣，一個小小的洞穴赫然可見，洞穴之外是它的主人——一只小狗。

小狗靜靜地臥著，它棕黃色的毛發與周圍的雅丹地貌完美融合，仿佛是這片土地自然孕育出的生命。小狗神態安然，目光或許正望向遠方，又似乎只是沉浸于這片寧靜之中。

小狗在屬于自己的雅丹洞穴前

Here in northwestern Dunhuang, Gansu province, stretches a vast and boundless desert, where towering Yardang formations rise like exclamation points across the horizon. Beneath one such towering formation, a small cave comes into view. And just outside its entrance lies its quiet inhabitant—a small dog. The dog rests peacefully, its tawny fur blending seamlessly with the surrounding terrain.

與這個特殊的狗窩僅僅一條小路之隔，是敦煌西湖自然保護區土梁道保護站的辦公/宿舍區，同樣是開鑿于高聳如墻的雅丹體中。在過去四年里，這里既是路生榮的工作地，也是他的居住地。

開鑿于敦煌雅丹體中的敦煌西湖自然保護區土梁道保護站 趙旭拍攝

鑿于雅丹體中的土梁道保護站的內部 趙旭拍攝

開鑿于敦煌雅丹體中的土梁道保護站 路生榮拍攝

"Yardang"（雅丹）一詞來源于維吾爾語，在維吾爾語中，"yardang"意為陡岸或侵蝕形成的壟脊，這個詞最早由瑞典探險家斯文·赫定（Sven Hedin）于20世紀初在其羅布泊地區的探險中引入學術界。他在那里首次記錄并描述了這種被風侵蝕形成的特殊地貌。

Just a narrow path separates the dog's den from the office and living quarters of Tuliangdao Station—one of four stations in the Dunhuang Xihua Nature Reserve. Like the den, the station is carved directly into the towering, wall-like Yardang formations. Since 2021, this has been both the workplace and home of Lu Shengrong.

For those unfamiliar, Yardang (Yadan in Chinese) refers to wind-sculpted landforms found in arid deserts, shaped as strong winds erode alternating layers of soft and hard sedimentary rock. The term, from the Uyghur language, was popularized by Swedish explorer Sven Hedin after his early 20th-century expeditions in China's Lop Nur region.

敦煌地區的雅丹地貌 仝允杉拍攝

在甘肅敦煌，大面積雅丹地貌形成獨特的景觀。作為古絲綢之路上的綠洲重鎮，敦煌自古以來就是中國通往中亞及更遙遠地區的重要門戶。早在公元前2世紀，絲綢之路的開通便帶動了數次大規模的人口遷徙與土地開發，使綠洲一度繁榮興盛。然而，荒漠始終潛伏于邊緣，從未真正退去。到了18世紀，沙漠開始迅速擴張，濕地日漸消退，人口的持續遷入與耕地的過度開墾導致水源枯竭，為沙漠的蔓延打開了通道。

They are a geological hallmark of Dunhuang — an ancient oasis town and important stop along the Silk Road, which once linked China to Central Asia and beyond.

The opening of that great land route in the 2nd century BC sparked waves of migration and land reclamation that ebbed and flowed for two millennia. Though the desert was always present, the 18th century saw its rapid expansion. Wetlands vanished as migration and overcultivation depleted water resources, allowing the desert's creeping advance.

“我們曾對自然造成過傷害，現在必須努力去修復它。” 巡護員路生榮這樣說道。他指出，保護區名為“西湖”，正是對昔日水草豐美景象的紀念——那時，敦煌以西的廣大區域湖泊星羅棋布，濕地密布。

敦煌西湖自然保護區的濕地 吳興東拍攝

“如今，我們負責管理一片約6,600平方公里的自然保護區，其中濕地面積約為970平方公里。”路解釋道，“也正因如此，這片區域被視為阻擋沙漠入侵的最后一道天然屏障——它不僅守護著周邊的生態系統，也間接保護著舉世聞名、位于保護區東側約145公里處的莫高窟。”

"What we have done to nature, we must now make right," Lu said, pointing out that Xihu, or West Lake, serves as a reminder of a time when water-rich landscapes stretched across the vast region west of Dunhuang.

"Today, within our 6,600-square-kilometer reserve, approximately 970 sq km are wetlands. This is why the reserve is considered the last natural barrier against the encroaching desert — safeguarding not only the surrounding ecosystem, but also the world-renowned Mogao Grottoes, located about 145 km to the east," he said.

位于保護區西北邊緣的土梁道工作站的西側就是庫姆塔格沙漠。庫姆塔格沙漠以極端干旱、龐大的沙丘體以及與人類聚居區距離之近而聞名，是典型的流動性沙漠。人們普遍認為，沙漠持續的東移，是導致西湖區域多個大型湖泊與濕地消失的重要原因之一。

“目前，整個自然保護區已全面禁止任何人類活動。” 路生榮介紹道。他與另外四位同事的主要職責之一，是監控所有試圖進入保護區的人員——無論是誤入的旅客、偷獵者，還是非法砍伐胡楊樹的人。

路生榮（中）和他的巡護員同事們觀測水鳥 路生榮提供

胡楊是一種生命力極強的樹種，不僅能在極度干旱的環境中存活，還具有出色的耐鹽堿能力。西湖自然保護區內，分布著中國西北地區最大、最為集中連片的胡楊林。

Just west of Tuliangdao Station lies the Kumtag (Kumutage) Desert, known for its extreme aridity, towering sand dunes, and proximity to human settlements. As a typical shifting-sand desert, its gradual encroachment is believed to have contributed to the disappearance of several major lakes and wetlands once part of the West Lake region.

"Today, the entire nature reserve is closed to human activity," said Lu. He and his four colleagues are responsible for monitoring anyone attempting to enter the area—whether off-course travelers, poachers, or illegal loggers targeting Euphrates poplars. These trees, remarkably resilient to drought and saline-alkaline soil, form the largest and most contiguous poplar forest in the region.

除了巡護林地，對瀕危野生動物的保護，尤其是國家一級保護動物——野駱駝和普氏野馬，也是重中之重。

敦煌西湖自然保護區里的普氏野馬 吳興東拍攝

“野駱駝有時非常具攻擊性。” 路回憶道。有一次他甚至不得不翻越一道高高的圍欄，才躲過一頭對他緊追不舍的野駱駝。“但真正讓我們感到恐懼的，是蜱蟲——它們叮咬后會引發劇烈瘙癢，甚至高燒，而在野外巡護時，幾乎無法避免與它們接觸。”

他回憶起曾為制作標本而回收一具野駱駝尸體的情景：成群的蜱蟲覆蓋了動物的皮毛，令人毛骨悚然。

Lu said they also closely monitor endangered wildlife, particularly wild camels and Przewalski's horses, both under Class 1 national protection.

"Wild camels can be aggressive," he recalled, describing how he once had to leap over a high fence to escape one in pursuit. "But what truly terrifies us are the ticks—they cause unbearable itching, frequent fevers, and are nearly impossible to avoid during fieldwork."

He winced at the memory of swarms of ticks crawling through the fur of a camel carcass he once had to collect for taxidermy.

敦煌西湖自然保護區里的野駱駝 吳興東拍攝

不過，比起環境的艱苦，更令人難以承受的，是那種滲入骨髓的孤獨。這里是一片荒蕪之地，唯有風聲晝夜低吟。在這樣的地方，同伴的陪伴就顯得尤為珍貴——共同駐守的巡護員成為彼此的心理支撐。

42歲的路生榮就在土梁道站就有一位這樣的戰友——比他年長11歲的田守軍。田自2017年起便在此工作。“我以前是個司機，開著卡車做野外調查都沒問題，可一旦車陷進沙子里，就得自己動手用千斤頂把它弄出來。”田笑著回憶道。

“不過來了這里，要學的東西多了，比如寫巡護報告、做飯。飯我以前在家從來沒做過，現在我們幾個人輪流做飯。”

敦煌西湖自然保護區土梁道保護站的田守軍在做飯

他一邊說，一邊熟練地拉著一條條當地特色的手搟面。他的廚藝，就是在這間狹小廚房里練出來的——和土梁道站的大多數室內空間一樣，這里是直接從堅硬的雅丹地貌中鑿出的。保護站一共有四個窯洞，每個大約45平方米，建一個要耗時一個半月。

Despite the physical hardships, nothing compares to the deep loneliness of life on the reserve, where only the wind keeps constant company. The bond between rangers is both comforting and essential for mental well-being.

At 42, Lu Shengrong found companionship in Tian Shoujun, 11 years his senior, who joined Tuliangdao Station in 2017. "I used to be a driver. Driving the survey truck was easy—until it got stuck in the sand," Tian joked. "I also had to learn new things like writing reports and cooking. Now we take turns in the kitchen."

As he spoke, he skillfully pulled strands of hand-stretched noodles, a local specialty. Like most spaces at the station, their compact kitchen was carved straight into the towering Yardang formations. "We have four such cave dwellings, each about 45 square meters. It takes around a month and a half to dig one out," Tian said.

億萬年前，這片地貌曾是遠古海洋的底部，這也解釋了為何這里的沉積巖層清晰可辨，層理分明，硬軟相間。“像砂巖、石灰巖這種硬質巖層尤其難以開鑿。”盧生榮補充道。“施工時得從上往下傾斜打洞，晚上灌水軟化巖石，第二天再繼續鑿，有時還得用上炸藥。”

這些洞屋通常沒有窗戶，因為無需通風，全天依靠電燈照明。只有在打開房門的一瞬間，外界的光才會短暫涌入，如同從巖縫中傾瀉而下的水流，瞬間點亮整個屋內。

These landforms, once ancient seafloor, are marked by alternating layers of hard and soft sedimentary rock.

"The harder layers—like sandstone and limestone—are especially difficult to bore through," Lu said. "We drill at an angle from top to bottom, soften the rock overnight with water, and sometimes use explosives."

The caves have no windows, needing no ventilation, and rely entirely on electric light. Only when the door opens does a slice of the outside world pour in, like water through a crack in stone.

在土梁道站以西不到100公里處，便是羅布泊——一座早已干涸的鹽湖。

1980年，生物化學家兼探險家彭加木在此神秘失蹤，使得這片土地在中國人的記憶中與神秘、荒涼與干旱緊密相連。

“很少有人知道，羅布泊曾是一個龐大的鹽湖系統的一部分，西邊有塔里木河，東邊則有疏勒河注入其中。” 路生榮說道。

20世紀中葉，羅布泊迅速干涸，到1970年代末已徹底沙化。然而，塔里木河與疏勒河這兩條沙漠動生命線并未完全枯竭。近年來，國家啟動了大規模生態保護工程，情況已大為改善。

Less than 100 kilometers west of the station lies Lop Nur, a former salt lake made infamous by the 1980 disappearance of biochemist Peng Jiamu, which etched the region into China's imagination as a symbol of mystery and desolation.

"Few realize Lop Nur was once fed by the Tarim and Shule rivers," said Lu.

Though it vanished by the late 1970s due to desertification, recent large-scale conservation efforts have brought significant improvements to the rivers and surrounding ecosystems.

“敦煌市，包括我們所在的自然保護區，位于疏勒河下游。過去多年，上游水源緊張，連農田灌溉都難以保障，更別提讓水流到我們這兒了。”路生榮說，“但自2017年以后，情況就不一樣了。”

得益于水流恢復，這片區域的植被和野生動物數量顯著回升。久違的蘆葦沼澤再度顯現，遷徙的水鳥種類和數量也日益增多——它們重新將這里視為長途遷徙中的重要驛站。

敦煌西湖自然保護區的水鳥 孫志成拍攝

最令路生榮欣慰的是，如今的沙丘已在青草扎根、濕地重現的地方止步不前。“這讓我覺得我們的堅守沒有白費。” 他說。在相當長一段時間里，大自然對種種保護措施的反映的遲緩，無聲地考驗著每一位守護者的耐心與信念。

"Dunhuang, including our reserve, sits at the lower reaches of the Shule River," said Lu. "For years, upstream water was too scarce even for farming, let alone reaching us—but that changed after 2017."

Since then, renewed water flow has revived vegetation and wildlife. Reed marshes and lakes are returning, and migrating waterbirds now stop here in greater numbers and diversity.

What reassures Lu most is that sand dunes have now stopped advancing where grasses grow or wetlands form. "It means our efforts haven't been in vain," he said, though nature's slow recovery once tested his patience.

這種耐心至今仍至關重要。盡管當地生態有所改善，但這里依舊是年降水量有些年份甚至不足20毫米，而蒸發量卻通常在2,400到3,000毫米之間的極旱之地。

“每年四五月間是沙漠風力最為猛烈的時候。” 路生榮說。他已習慣于在風聲呼嘯中入睡。白天，沙塵暴攪動天地，將世界吞沒在一片熾白的迷霧之中。

長久以來，敦煌的雅丹地貌被稱為“魔鬼城”。在蒼茫大地上，風蝕土丘如堡壘般林立，風穿其間，發出陣陣的嘯聲。然而田守軍卻說，這并不是全部。

“站在保護區邊緣時你也許無法想象，但越往深處走，展現在你眼前的景象就越不同。”他說。“荒涼逐漸退去，碧草如茵的湖泊漸次顯現，金黃的胡楊樹在單調無垠的沙海中驚艷了雙眼。生命那份堅韌而靜默的力量，令人由衷敬嘆。”

敦煌西湖自然保護區里成片的胡楊林 吳興東拍攝

Patience is still vital in this harsh land, where annual rainfall is under 20 millimeters while evaporation ranges between 2,400 and 3,000 millimeters.

"The wind is fiercest in April and May," said Lu, now used to sleeping through its constant roar. By day, sandstorms blur earth and sky into a blinding haze.

Reflecting on the name "Devil City," inspired by wind whistling through jagged Yardang formations, Tian said, "From the edge, it seems desolate. But deeper in, the desert softens—grassy lakes emerge, golden poplars shine—and you can’t help but marvel at life's fierce, quiet persistence."

記者：趙旭

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